We had a long bus ride to Rome ahead of us and luckily there was a planned visit to a family run winery along the way. Our pit stop was in Orvieto located in the Umbria region. Built upon volcanic rock, the city sits atop the tufo stone which also ends up being very significant to today’s destination.
Tenuta de Velette has a long history, initially cultivated by the Etruscans for its wine, then as a resting stop for travelers, a monastery and then again as a winery. We were greeted by Cecilia, who runs the winery alongside her brother. As it turns out, she is also a Rick Steves tour guide and had been trained by none other than our own tour leader, Rick Garman.
On to Roma! As part of our orientation, Rick gave us a quick lesson on getting around on the subway. Rome’s subway system consists of two lines, A and B. The word is that a new third line has been in the works but the problem with building anything in Rome is what marks Rome: the ruins. Every time they begin excavating, they have to stop everything and bring an archaeology crew out to inspect the finds. The joke amongst locals is whether it will ever get done. Rick handed out our 3-day Metro pass and we boarded our train at Ottaviano and took it the three stops to Spagna.
After everyone had their turn of making a contribution to the fountain, we were getting ready for our next stop: the Pantheon. Classic and grand, the building stands as it has for nearly two thousand years. Walking in, I just had to stop and take it all in. The dome is coffered lending it to its beautiful aesthetic and the focal point of the ceiling is the oculus. Some thirty feet across, it along with the door are the building’s sole source of natural light. In addition to housing the tomb of Raphael, the building is still in use as the spiritual home to all gods. It's such a sight to behold.
We were now headed to an even livelier plaza, Piazza Navona. The plaza is oblong-shaped and contains a small fountain at each of the ends but the main attraction here is Bernini’s Four Rivers Fountain paying tribute to the four primary rivers on each of the continents. The fountain is the centerpiece of the piazza that looked like it might have served as a chariot racetrack and today is filled with artists drawing portraits and caricatures to paying tourists.
To begin our wine experience, Cecilia spoke about the property’s history and then proceeded to give us a tour of the grounds; the most interesting feature of the winery was the underground cellars that were made of the tufo and hand dug by the predecessors. It turns out that the climate found in these cellars were perfect for storing wine and is primarily used to store the family's own wine collection. We were led back above ground into a brightly sunlit dining room that had a beautiful painting on the ceiling and a long oblong table that featured an assortment of food and amazing. It was the ultimate wine and food pairing experience.
A short walk from the metro stop were the famous Spanish Steps. There was a bit of a commotion and then we heard the clapping. Looking midway up the steps was a young bride and groom having their pictures taken.
We ventured from here through streets and alleys and found ourselves at the famous Trevi Fountain. The sound of the flowing water and the giddiness of the people create a sort of an excitement in the air. People surround the perimeter of the fountain, backs turned, tossing a coin over their shoulder (right hand over the left shoulder) hoping to ensure a return trip to Rome.
Next stop: Campo di Fiori. This restaurant-lined plaza is a flower market by day and a popular social hotspot at night. Standing in the middle of square is a bronze statue of Giordano Bruno who apparently had a run in with the papacy and was burned at the stake in this piazza. This was going to be where we would be finding dinner. Mom and I celebrated my birthday with a quiet dinner and a tiramisu to-go. It would be a nice treat to share with my sister and her family when they arrived.
Rick gathered the troops and gave us options to get back to the hotel: grab a cab, find the bus stop or to hoof it. There was a small group of us who wanted to try our hand at making it back on foot. We had some general reference points to look out for, the major one being the ‘building with an angel on top’.
The Castel San Angelo looked like a huge ship with a pedestrian bridge lined with statues of angels. From the bridge, looking 90 degrees to the left, we could see St. Peter’s Basilica in the distance. We ran into some Swiss Guards who assured us we were on the right track. We followed the fortress wall all the way around and managed to find our way back to our hotel. Nice teamwork!
Memorable Moments
Enjoying the wine 'experience' at Tenuta Le Velette with our merry band of misfits
Celebrating wedded bliss with a newly married couple at the Spanish Steps
Tossing a coin in Trevi Fountain
Looking up at the oculus and the coffered ceiling at the Pantheon…breathtaking!
Taking in the nighttime scene at Piazza Navona and the Four Rivers Fountain
Seeing St. Peter's Bascilica illuminated at night and knowing we were headed in the right direction
Sealing it with a kiss at the Spanish Steps
The Eye in the Sky at the Pantheon… such a cool sight!
Uno, due, tre!
What's In My Wallet?
Our home in Rome, handy map on the back of the business card
Our 3-day Metro pass that covers both mass transit via the metro and the bus line came in handy in traversing around Rome